Recently in Film Category

I could have sworn that I'd written a blog post about this topic, but I did a scan through my archives and came up empty, so here I go.  A few weeks ago while I was shooting futurist Ray Kurzweil, he asked me the question that most non-photographers end up asking me.  "Is that film or digital".  And it surprises me that this is still in active rotation.  Maybe they ask it because it's topical and they don't know what else to say, or maybe they figure that even though amateur photography is about 98% digital at this point, maybe pros still shoot film.  

The answer is that yes, some of them do.  But it's a minority by now and the population is shrinking. Whenever I meet a young photographer who's dead-set on shooting only film, I just shake my head.  Maybe if you're independently wealthy or are doing amazingly original art photography you could pull it off. Honestly though, unless you're shooting only b/w tri-x, I wouldn't trust that I'd be able to even buy my favorite film in 5 years.  In the short time that I've been shooting, I've said goodbye to a number of films that I loved to shoot. I still weep for Scala. The film counter at B&H is a third the size is was only couple years ago. And chemistry and darkroom gear which used to take up 4 rows of shelves is now relegated to the back wall next to the bathrooms.

Let me take a moment to say that I'm no hater of film.  I've got a Leica M4, and a Hasselblad and a big Cambo 4x5 that I occasionally take out for a spin.  In fact on my recent trip to Japan, I took only the Hasselblad and twenty-something rolls of film.  I love the way that great pictures from film look. It can be special, but that doesn't mean it always is.  It also doesn't mean that digital images can't be special too.  They're just different. It used to be that digital images lacked depth, resolution, and refinement. Here's the thing though, digital keeps getting better while film stays the same.  And better it's gotten by leaps and bounds.  My first digital camera, less than 10 years ago, was a 2MP little digicam whose images don't even fill half of my current screen.  Now I've got a 21MP body whose images easily rival my medium format setup in overall quality. Does b/w film have a lot more dynamic range that digital?  Yes and by a few stops. But honestly, that's the only truly objective measure where film is still killing digital.  And also the next place that digital will probably try to improve. 

In my humble opinion as a working photographer, the two are at least at parity. They each have strengths and weaknesses, but images of approximately the same quality. Much like analog and digital audio recording. Digital has gotten to the point where it's advantages trump analog with all but the most ardent die-hards. And don't forget the photoshop plug-ins that add grain or otherwise try to mimic the look of different film formulations.  I use fake grain occasionally, and it looks pretty good.  Another thing that gets me mad is film snobbery. Competitions which take only film-based entries for example, have no place. What does it matter how the image was made. Isn't it the final image that matters?

Some digital haters like to point to the supposed over-use of digital manipulation, as something akin to a 'purity of the game' argument.  Well you don't have to look hard to see the weaknesses of that.  Manipulation of images has been around since the medium was invented. Different development recipes, basic dodging and burning during printing, and don't forget the heavy retouching of old negatives with what is essentially redrawing with a pencil.  Why do you think master print makers exist? At the recent Avedon exhibit at ICP there is a whole room full of working prints with his comments and direction. As well as a number of collages that I had looked at large prints of only 10 minutes earlier and had no idea they weren't a single shot. Hell, even Dorthea Lange's famous migrant mother photo is manipulated

As someone who shoots mostly digital and does a fair amount of manipulation to my images, I find the new technology to be liberating.  I could not make my portraits on film and have them look the way they do. To me it's the final image that matters, not necessarily the steps you went through to get it.  Film is a pain in many ways.  You're stuck with film speed and type for a whole roll, you've got to get it processed, most of the time you've got to scan it.  Plus it's expensive.  My Japan pictures cost me about $400 in film and processing, plus 2 days of my time in scanning, color correcting, and retouching.

Maybe for some people that's a good thing.  Some sort of perverse puritanical statement about pulling yourself up from your bootstraps.  'It's supposed to be hard! Otherwise everybody would be doing it'.  You know what?  Everybody is.  Everybody has got a camera nowadays and they're posting their images to flickr.  The thing is that you can still tell the good images from the bad.  Yes digital makes it easier for everybody, but it doesn't make everyone good.  Tools are tools, nothing more.  Are things that are time-consuming automatically better?  Anyone who believes that can go clean their bathroom with a toothbrush.  Seriously though, if that were the case, then why are all these film people using plastic roll film instead of pouring their own Collodion plates and developing them over vapor before making albumen prints (which I would love to try at some point btw)?  Technology moves on, things change.

While it may sound like I'm mostly knocking film, it's not for political reasons, purely practical ones. I and I think most other photographers, would have a hard time making a living shooting film.  People expect their photographs in a few hours, not a few days. But mostly what I'm trying to say here is that there is room for both under the photographic tent. So if you like film or digital or both, it really doesn't matter.  They're just tools for making pretty things to look at, not religions in and of themselves regardless of what anybody says. So worry about the images, and certainly don't judge them based on what was used to make them. 

Japan book.

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If anyone is interested, I've published a book of 36 of my images from Japan.
It's available 12x12" Hardcover for $85.



http://www.blurb.com/bookstore/detail/761253
One last small set of scans from Japan.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/billwadman//sets/72157616809298067

I've got one more roll to get developed next week, but I'm done with everything I've got right now.

Now I've got to cull the 122 that I scanned down to 25 or so for a show at the Red Horse Cafe in June.  <sigh>
I'm still working on scanning all of the film from my trip.  It's massively time consuming. 
But in the meantime, I thought it would be interesting to make a little collage of all of the thumbnails.  So here's 2 weeks of photos in 710 pixels.  Click here for a bigger one.
Ok, here's my first set of 50 images from my recent trip to Japan.  Due to the number I've decided to host them on my flickr account that I never really use. So feel free to comment here or there.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/billwadman/sets/72157616408174078/

Scanning film is a giant pain in the ass and very time consuming.  I spent all day yesterday and got through 9 of 24 rolls of film, so there is a lot still to process.  More to come in the coming days.

They are in no chronological order, just the first 9 rolls I put in sheets, and really more about fun and interesting things I saw than the normal portraits I do.

Let me know what you think.
So I'm back from Japan, now have a few hours of sleep toward the ultimate goal of not waking up in the middle of the night anymore, and would like to share a few thoughts on taking pictures while on a trip to Japan.

As you know I went with only a film camera, an old Hasselblad 500cm.  Today's job is to start culling through all the pictures and scanning and whatnnot, but I can already make some conclusions:  
- The Hasselblad takes really pretty pictures.
- Film and processing are getting more and more expensive.
- Slide film sucks on contrasty scenes.
- and finally, if I had it to do over again, I would shoot digital. Probably the 5DII with the 24-105IS zoom and an additional wide fast prime for night stuff.

It was really fun shooting film and certainly changes the experience of taking pictures. And even though with digital there isn't that "this piece of film was there at the location where the picture was taken" kind of like an 'moment time capsule'.  In the end the cost of film, I probably spent almost $400 on film and processing,  as well as the inability for me to change films quickly, led to some frustration.   And yes I know I could have had multiple film backs with different films, etc, I didn't want to deal with that kind of complexity.  Plus at over $1 a shot with medium format film, I was more hesitant to take more fun and silly pictures that might not work.  Digital would have let me be a bit more experimental.

All of that said, for those photographers planning a trip to Japan, here are a few pointers.  You really can find film over there.  120 is no problem, I even saw 11x14" sheet film.  I should have brought some home for Timothy Greenfield-Sanders.  The big camera stores like Bic Camera and Yodobashi have large film selections which are just out against the wall for you to peruse, and even little camera places in tourist sections of town carried a more impressive range than most pro shops here in New York.  I'll agree with the person who suggested Provia 400.  It's beautiful, though a little too expensive for me at $8 a roll.  Yikes.

As far as processing goes, I didn't do any until I was back in Tokyo the second week. I brought most of it to a place called Kimura Camera  on suggestion of an old post on photo.net.  I was in Shinjuku, so it was the closest place that wasn't some huge mega store.  However they sent it out and it took a few days, though it was done faster than they promised.  Quality seemed good and the people there was super nice.  Like if they were that nice in America, they would be being sarcastic. This place also had cases of old cool stuff to oogle, some of it at reasonable prices. 

However when I picked up my last batch from them, I had a half dozen or so more rolls and not enough time to do it their way so I asked if he had any faster suggestions and he pointed me to Horiuchi Color, which is the kind of place I was looking for all along.  Pro lab, overnight turn around, better prices than people who have to send it out. Their work was great, and they only took cash (which I found interesting) but the one guy in there didn't like me at all.  I was trying to be polite to the girl who was helping me, and maybe he was dating her and felt threatened or something, because he was cold.  A drastic 180 degree difference from everyone else we me there.

Oh and as far as film suggestions.  I think sticking with negative film over slides is a good idea. The dynamic range of chromes is a little too narrow for many settings.  If I were starting over on the trip, I'd grab a couple boxes of Portra 400VC and then a few rolls of 160 and 800 for certain settings.  

Ok, time to get to scanning and such. If anyone has any specific questions, let me know.

Japan gear

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So, I'm heading for Japan on Saturday, and I figured I'd talk a bit about what I'm packing.  Photo-wise of course, I'm sure you aren't interested in how many pairs of socks I'm bringing. Well, this is it. One camera and it's film.  I decided on my old Hasselblad 500cm just to make things interesting and slow me down a bit. When it's all folded up, it's surprising how compact they are for a medium format camera.  It's from about 1973, and I bought it from KEH a few years ago with an 80mm lens for around $800, bargain grade and it works great.  I did replace the focusing screen with a acu-matte that I found online used.  It had a couple small scratches on it, but it cost $30 instead of the usual $120 for ones without a scratch. I think I can handle the damage.  I've also added an op/tech strap like I use on my Canon as well.  They're comfortable and I like the way they just click disconnect when they get in your way.

Next is a meter, since the 500cm doesn't have one. So I'm carrying my Sekonic 308. It's not fancy like some of my friends have, but it does the job for what I need it for, which is mostly purposes like this and when I'm shooting film with a strobe. Actually in this case I wish I had a smaller one like the 208.  Some little old school analog one that took up a little less space, but at the moment I'd rather not spend another $100 for a marginal size decrease.  One thing I like about the lens I've got is that the aperture and shutter speed are linked and related based on EV which is a measure of the amount of light there is available.  So your meter reads 12EV, you left the lever and set your lens to 12 and then all of the correct combinations of aperture and shutter are available at a twist.  So maybe f/2.8 at 250th, f/4 at 125th, and f/5.6 at 60th are all options for 12EV.  Well the lens is locked to 12, so just select the combination you want. Makes it really easy, especially when your traveling and your head gets fuzzy.

And since it's a film camera, I'll be bringing film.  It's all in a plastic bag so that I can ask TSA security to hand check it and not have it go through the machine.  Apparently they have to if you ask nicely and make it easy for them.  I always bring a roll or two of Ilford 3200, both because it's handy when there's no light, and also because it's really fast, so you can say, "Well, there's high-speed film in there, so it absolutely can't go through the machine.  I plan on getting the film processed there when I can, just so I don't have to deal with security on the way back, and I've heard that I can buy film there, but I'm more of a Kodak guy than Fuji, so I thought I'd bring some just in case.  So in the bag I've got:

Kodak E100G Chrome
I love this stuff, something about the subdued colors it's got.  Shot some in Paris a few years ago and they were my favorite pictures. Plus looking at travel positives on a light table is so satisfying as well as making scanning easier. Some of the more observant of you might notice that there are a couple rolls of Provia in there as well, but I've replaced them with more E100G since I took this photo an hour ago.  I figure I prefer the Kodak, and I'm sure I can get Fuji over there.

Kodak Portra 400VC
I usually get NC, but they didn't have any in stock so I figured I'd try the more saturated stuff.  My girlfriend Holly at Calumet assured me that it wasn't too garish, I'll find out for myself. Went with 400 for times when 100 chromes are just too slow.  I also threw in a roll of Portra 800 just in case.

Ilford 3200 B/W
This stuff is really fast, really contrasty, and pretty grainy, but fun for dusk and nighttime in the city.  I imagine it could be magical in Tokyo.  We'll see.

My goal is to shoot about 1 roll a day, which would leave me with about 200 photos over the two weeks.  That's a lot of scanning, and processing fees, but when's the next time I'm going to be in Nara?  Exactly.
Look at any review of the latest digital camera and you'll see at least a page or two of 100% crops of noise at different ISO speeds, and endless comparisons with 23 other cameras.  At this point I think it's fair to say that the engineers have successfully slayed the noise dragon. Both Canon and Nikon have full-frame cameras that are comfortable at 6400 and higher (notice I say "comfortable", that's actually usable and not just in special circumstances.)

One side note I'd like to make about those noise comparisons before I go on. They're not at all real world.  Usually they'll shoot the same scene on a tripod with the same lighting. All very scientific and objective, but most people are not sports shooters who need fast shutter speeds and so up their ISO when they've got decent light. Most people are like me and up the ISO when they don't have enough light and thus high-iso noise is accentuated buy dark tones and shadow. That's why I said 6400 is comfortable.  Ok, done with my mini-rant, now on with the show.

My old 5D was for a long time the leader in the noise race, then the Nikon 12MP cameras came out and upped the ante, then the 5DII came out with similar noise but twice the dots, etc.  The thing is, the noise we're dealing with now is leaps and bounds better than on film at the equivalent speeds.  Last year I was walking around with my sister carrying my Leica filled with a roll of Portra 800 and when I got home and scanned it, I was very surprised how much grain there was. Here's an example to the right, and that's a 50% crop (here's a link to the whole image in a post from last year).  I'd say it's the equivalent of at least 3200 or even 6400 on my current digital.  That's at least a two to three stop advantage.

Yes that's 35mm, and medium format and large format are better when it comes to grain.  I've shot the Ilford 3200 speed film on my Hasselblad when traveling and loved it.  The grain however was definitely there.  Medium format film compared to 35mm digital, I'd give the edge to digital.  Don't even try to talk about 4x5, what was the last time anyone shot anything over 400 speed film.  I'll agree large format is amazing, but it couldn't be further from 35mm digital in workflow or convenience.

You could also argue the differences between digital noise and film grain.  Sure, I'll agree that as a general rule of thumb I'd rather have film grain.  But noise has been getting better looking, and as resolution goes up, it gets smaller relative to the pixels.  Which is something that people who compare the relative noise of the D3 with the 5DII rarely mention.

Here's the kicker though: Lately I've been adding grain to my images, especially ones shot at 100-400 ISO.  That's right, I'll open the image up in 32bit Photoshop (yuck!) and create a layer of medium gray and run the Alien Skin Exposure plug-in to add film grain to it (I choose the 120 size grain).  Then I change the blending mode to overlay and opacity to taste. Now, you might ask, "Why in God's name would you want to ADD fake film grain to a clean digital image!?".  Well to answer that, I'm going to have to take you on a quick little ride down my memory lane.

I went to school for music and not visual arts and did a lot of production work where I soaked up just about everything I could get my hands on about digital audio.  I could write for days about how different aspects of the digital/analog battle in audio correlates to the digital/film battle in photography, but for the moment we'll keep it to one facet, and that's dither.

The process of analog to digital conversion in audio is much like a A/D converter in a camera.  Most importantly in that the louder or brighter the signal, the more information that is used to capture it.  So in audio that means that really quiet things down near the noise floor tend to flirt between being on or being off. For example, if the scale of loudness, for the sake of our conversation, goes from 1-100 (100 being clipping) then there will be some really really quiet sounds (or overtones and harmonics within other sounds) that sometimes register a 1 and sometimes register a 0.  Basically coming in and out of existence as far as the recording goes.  This shows itself as all kinds of low level distortions and some people say it's audible, blah blah blah.

The point is that recording people decided a long time ago that if you added really quiet noise to the signal, those quiet sounds wouldn't go from on to off, but would rather go from audible to being lost in this very quiet noise floor which sounds much like hiss on an analog tape (remember that stuff?)  The crazy thing is that listening tests showed that adding this noise, or dither, actually made the recordings sound better, even though technically, you were making them less perfect.

So, how does this effect photography.  Well I guess is does in two ways.  The 1 to 1 corresponding  effect would be to add grain to a digital images which has a lot of dark tones which have "blocked up".  That is, that there aren't enough numbers in the data to describe enough levels in the darkest stop of the image right next to black.  By adding grain, you'll make the transitions between those levels less noticeable because the differences will get lost in the randomness of the noise pattern instead of being an obvious line between black and one level above black.  You might be losing ultimate image quality, but you'll end up with a more visually appealing photograph to the viewer.

But after all that explanation, that's not how I've been using the film grain lately.  Mostly I'm using it to hide my mistakes, primarily in skin.  Using the clone tool and healing brushes most of us can handle a few blemishes and wrinkles. But if the need for cloning is extensive or you've got to clone out a big chunk of hair from in front of someone's face, it's not as easy to make it look natural and blend with the skin around it in a believable way.  Film grain to the rescue. By adding the grain you're bringing back some of the texture that too much 25% opacity cloning can smudge, as well as blend different work areas into each other.  Plus, I think that our eyes do find film grain a pleasing artifact.

Here's a 100% example from yesterday's image.  First is the original RAW file, second is hair removed and skin smoothed, and third is the a layer of film grain added.  Pretty cool eh?

What You Need To Know

Portrait photographer and Brooklynite Bill Wadman was the evil-genius responsible for 365portraits.com. His portraits have featured in TIME, BusinessWeek, Le Monde, POZ, and others.

Want to see more? Online Portfolio. If you'd like to commission him, here is where you can find him.

Twitter: @billwadman

By BILL WADMAN